Rising Stars — Revival of Five Rare Georgian Varieties
Today we're highlighting five rare indigenous grape varieties that have rightfully earned recognition and growing popularity among wine enthusiasts. Selected from hundreds of distinctive Vitis vinifera cultivars native to Georgia, these unique grapes showcase remarkable character, each expressing an authentic sense of place. Let's explore what makes these varieties special and deserving of attention.
Kakhuri Mtsvivani
Kakhuri Mtsvivani has a fascinating history of near-extinction and revival. Like many Georgian grape varieties, its name follows distinctive conventions derived from unique traits or behaviors. "Mtsvivani" translates literally to "falling," presumably referencing its reputation for easily dropping from the vine upon ripeness—though this trait remains anecdotal, as contemporary growers have not directly observed it.
Historically prevalent throughout Kakheti, Mtsvivani began its decline with the devastating arrival of Phylloxera, a pest that decimated vineyards worldwide. Its situation worsened further during the Soviet era, where agricultural policies favored uniformity, standardization, and high yields. Tamaz Konchoshvili, President of Corporation Kindzmarauli, vividly recalls this shift: "I remember well that when I was a child, Kakhetian Mtsvivani constituted 10%–15% of vineyards in Kvareli. However, the Communist era’s emphasis on two or three high-yielding varieties pushed it, and many others, to the brink of extinction."
The dramatic revival of Mtsvivani began in the early 1990s, thanks to Konchoshvili’s dedicated efforts. After unsuccessful attempts to locate the variety in his father’s vineyard, Konchoshvili finally discovered surviving Mtsvivani cuttings in the neglected vineyard of his former schoolteacher, Shota Rusiashvili, just before the vineyard was scheduled for removal. Rescuing these cuttings in 1992, he propagated grafted vines and successfully replanted them by 1994. Today, that restored vineyard row serves as a crucial resource for ongoing preservation and propagation efforts.
Historically, Georgian ampelographers documented six distinct grape varieties bearing the name "Mtsvivani": Kakhetian Mtsvivani, Adreula Mtsvivani, Patalanthian Mtsvivani, Imeretian Mtsvivani, Rachian Mtsvivani, and Gurian Mtsvivani. Each exhibits unique characteristics and adaptations to regional climates—interestingly, Gurian Mtsvivani is a red grape, whereas the others produce white grapes scattered across Kakheti, Imereti, and Racha-Lechkhumi. Recent findings have added another variation, Meskhetian Mtsvivani, further enriching the diversity within this grape family.
Beyond history and naming conventions, the rewarding part comes when tasting Kakhetian Mtsvivani wines. What sets Kakhetian Mtsvivani apart is its distinctive and easily recognizable profile. Remarkably adaptable, it effectively expresses its unique character across diverse terroirs. After experiencing a few examples of this variety, it's remarkably easy to identify during a blind tasting—not because it's intensely aromatic, but due to a distinctive combination of aromas and textures unmatched by other varieties.
Another intriguing aspect of Kakhetian Mtsvivani is its versatility in winemaking styles. While skin-contact (amber) wines from this variety are better known, the less common non-skin-contact white wines showcase its potential beautifully. Moreover, it responds exceptionally well to oak aging, further enhancing its distinctive characteristics and complexity.
Danakharuli
Red grape varieties from Kartli represent a distinct genre in Georgian winemaking. Varieties like Shavkapito, Tavkveri, Buza, and Danakharuli each contribute to a category of medium-bodied, delicate, and elegant wines. These wines offer a perfect counterbalance to the bolder, more powerful Saperavi from the east.
As for Danakharuli itself, its historical context remains elusive. Very little is known about the origins of the variety, and even the source of its name is uncertain. What we do know is that Danakharuli has historically been planted exclusively in Kartli, in a few specific villages. However, this limited geographical range doesn't detract from its potential or its intriguing pedigree. An intriguing rumor surrounding Danakharuli is its possible identity as the same grape as the Meskhetian variety known as Tamaris Vasi. While this connection has not been verified, we await the results of future DNA analyses to settle the matter conclusively. If proven, this could offer exciting insights into the grape’s history and further solidify its place in the Georgian wine narrative.
From a viticultural perspective, information is similarly sparse. The number of plantations is minimal, and we are aware that the variety is particularly susceptible to powdery mildew. Still, there is hope that as more plantations are established in Kartli—and intriguingly, also in Kakheti—more precise and detailed information about Danakharuli will emerge in the coming years.
When it comes to the wines made from Danakharuli, this grape is a perfect fit within Kartli’s long tradition of medium-bodied, fruit-forward reds. Yet, it brings a slightly different angle to the table. While many Kartli reds emphasize bright red fruits, Danakharuli leans towards darker, more complex fruit profiles. Expect flavors of plums and dark forest berries, providing a depth that sets it apart from other regional reds.
In terms of texture, Danakharuli tends to be thicker than both Tavkveri and Shavkapito, two of Kartli’s iconic varieties. It may also exhibit a slightly more tannic structure than these varieties. However, given that only a handful of bottled examples exist, it’s difficult to generalize about the grape’s overall characteristics. In my experience, some examples have tasted like a sweet, plumy Malbec from Mendoza, while others have resembled an earthy, mushroomy, umami-driven Pinot Noir from Pommard. What is clear, however, is that most examples I’ve tasted have shown exceptional quality. The true potential of Danakharuli, including how it ages and responds to vintage variation, remains to be fully explored. The increasing popularity of this variety suggests that it has much to offer, and all we can do now is wait and see how these wines evolve over time—and hope for even more extraordinary bottles to come.
Danakharuli also proves to be an excellent blending grape. A classic combination would pair it with Tavkveri for acidity and freshness, Shavkapito for earthy elegance, and Danakharuli itself to add a sweet, fruity mid-palate dimension. Its versatility in blends, alongside its standalone potential, makes it a valuable variety in both single-variety bottlings and creative cuvées.
Asuretuli Shala
Asuretuli Shala is a distinctive red grape variety intimately connected to the village of Asureti in the Kartli region of Georgia. Lower Kartli, where Asureti is located, differs notably from the northern part of the region, though they are often collectively referred to as Kartli.
The village of Asureti was established in 1818 by German colonists, who named it Elizabethal. The settlement retains German architectural influences, including a Lutheran church built in 1871 and a community cemetery reflecting its German heritage.
In the 1830s, a German settler named Otto Schall discovered a wild grapevine growing near Asureti. He domesticated this vine, leading to the cultivation of what became known as Asuretuli Shavi. The name "Asuretuli" translates to "from Asureti," and "Shala" honors Mr. Schall's contribution.
Now that we’ve covered the history of this variety, let’s dive into the specifics. One thing that everyone who grows this variety emphasizes is its extremely high yields. Controlling the vine vigor is crucial for achieving high-quality wines. This also explains the often low alcohol levels in many cases—if yields are not controlled, concentration tends to be lower.
As for the wines, much like the previously mentioned Mtsvivani Kakhuri, one of the main reasons why this variety is so interesting is that it’s instantly recognizable. It’s not a particular fruit note that stands out, but rather a distinctive texture. It’s almost as if you can smell a specific texture. Beyond this characteristic, it also exhibits a three-dimensional depth similar to Pinot Noir. Its color, light and delicate, also resembles its Burgundian counterpart. I have yet to taste an example of Asuretuli Shala that doesn’t carry this recognizable profile, even from different terroirs like Bolnisi, which brings out interesting variations on the Asureti version.
Overall, this variety has enormous potential. As it gains popularity, its style will become more defined. We still need to see how it evolves in oak and how it ages, but we’re confident that the future is bright for this variety.
Due to its rarity, it’s very unusual to see this variety in a monovarietal format. It’s typically blended with other grape varieties, which makes it harder to define its full potential.
Vardisperi Rkatsiteli
Now we dive into our two intriguing pink varieties, starting with Vardisperi Rkatsiteli, a naturally occurring rose-colored mutation from Kakheti, derived from what was once among the most planted grape varieties globally—Rkatsiteli. Recently, Vardisperi Rkatsiteli has been gaining attention, and rightfully so. Beyond producing incredibly beautiful grapes, this variety inherits the essential qualities of Rkatsiteli—disease resistance, vigor, and an easy-going character—but with a notable twist. With thicker skins and slightly later ripening compared to traditional Rkatsiteli, this variety tends to be less attractive to birds during harvest, a significant benefit in Kakheti where bird damage is common.
This unique mutation was first officially documented by Vasili Loladze in Mukuzani village in 1948. While Loladze pioneered research on the variety, it's fascinating to note that nearly every old Rkatsiteli vineyard harbors occasional pink mutations. If you stroll through any mature Rkatsiteli vineyard, you're almost guaranteed to encounter a few rose-colored vines scattered among the traditional ones.
Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Vardisperi Rkatsiteli lies in how dramatically it differs from its parent variety when it comes to winemaking. Beyond its captivating salmon-pink hue—especially pronounced when made traditionally with extended skin maceration—the similarities with Rkatsiteli essentially end.
Aromatically, Vardisperi Rkatsiteli takes a distinct path. While classic Rkatsiteli often develops notes reminiscent of caramelized fruit, Vardisperi expresses fresher, more herbaceous aromas combined with hints of fresh forest berries. Its thicker skins mean the wine typically requires additional aging to fully round out and soften, yet the results justify the patience.
Exciting questions arise regarding its potential in blends, its suitability for sparkling wines, and the character it might express without skin contact. Given its growing popularity, we can anticipate experiencing these varied interpretations soon, further enriching Georgia’s diverse viticultural landscape.
Chkhaveri
Our second pink variety is perhaps the most well-known among these five rare Georgian grapes. Despite its relative prominence, the inherent scarcity of Chkhaveri ensures it remains a highlight. Originating from Guria, this grape carries a legendary reputation, renowned particularly for its late ripening and the incredible diversity of wines it can produce.
The name "Chkhaveri" has linguistic roots, reflecting the vine’s unique growth characteristics. Renowned historian Ivane Javakhishvili explained that the prefix "chkha" relates to an old Georgian term signifying a thick, bunchy vine or a climbing vine abundant with clusters. Historically trained high above the ground—often climbing up trees—the name Chkhaveri perfectly captures this distinctive growth habit. Interestingly, Chkhaveri was historically known as Chkhaberdzuli, with Javakhishvili suggesting that Chkhaveri might be a shortened form of this older name, although modern viticulture identifies them as separate varieties. Additionally, in certain eastern Gurian villages, the grape is locally known as "Chkhaveli," underscoring its regional nuances. Although the precise origin of its name remains somewhat obscure, experts generally agree it points either to the vine's climbing nature or the distinct shape of its grape clusters.
Cultivating Chkhaveri poses unique challenges due to its late ripening and somewhat demanding nature. Historically, its vigorous climbing habit led growers to adopt the maghlari training method, allowing vines to ascend living tree trunks—commonly alder, mulberry, or cherry. This practice elevated grape clusters well above the damp ground, significantly reducing the risk of fungal diseases. With its thin-skinned berries vulnerable to rot and downy mildew, Chkhaveri thrives best on cooler, south-facing slopes with limestone-rich soils. Such conditions maximize airflow and minimize humidity around clusters, essential for successful cultivation. Today, preserving Chkhaveri’s historical and cultural legacy demands continued meticulous attention to these environmental details.
In terms of winemaking, Chkhaveri exhibits remarkable versatility. Similar to the previously mentioned Vardisperi Rkatsiteli, skin-fermented and aged Chkhaveri wines present an intense rose color, with some late-harvest examples approaching bright red rather than dark rose hues. These wines offer distinctive aromas of wild berries, rosehip, hibiscus, rooibos and berberis, complemented by excellent acidity and occasionally pronounced tannins that underscore their aging potential. Equally intriguing, Chkhaveri shines when produced in a non-skin-contact white wine style and has yielded exceptional sparkling wines. Truly, this variety embodies extraordinary versatility, and we eagerly anticipate experiencing more exemplary wines from this fascinating grape.