Gebrale — Exploring, Experimenting, and Reviving Rare Georgian Grape Varieties
In this interview, we chat with Vazha Kasrelishvili from Gebrale Winery, a winemaker from Kakheti who has a passion for rare Georgian grape varieties. Vazha shares his journey from working in his family's vineyard to experimenting with nearly forgotten grapes. He also discusses his winemaking style, sustainability efforts, and the unique characteristics of these rare wines, along with his vision for the future of Gebrale Winery.
Hey Vazha, let’s start from the beginning. How did you get into winemaking? Was it a family thing, like it is for a lot of people in Kakheti, or was it different for you?
My love for wine definitely started with my family. I was born and raised in Kakheti, where winemaking isn’t just a craft – it’s really just how we live. My dad had a small vineyard, and my granddad ran our family wine cellar. Growing up, I helped out with everything, from taking care of the vines to crushing the grapes. It wasn’t anything special, just how things were. In the early 2000s, as Saperavi wines started becoming more popular, I expanded our vineyards. But it wasn’t until around 2020 that I thought about bottling the wine I’d been making for years. I realized winemaking could be more than just a family thing – it could be a way to create something that’s personal while still honoring my family roots. Seeing the world get interested in Georgian wine inspired me to share what we’ve learned over generations.
How would you describe your winemaking philosophy or style, especially regarding rare varieties?
Our winemaking style is really all about respecting Georgian traditions while keeping things authentic. You’ll notice that a lot of our wines are made from rare and almost forgotten Georgian varieties. On one hand, we’re trying to preserve these rare grapes and give them the spotlight they deserve, but we also want them to express our unique terroir as much as possible.
We work with small-batch production and use Qvevris for fermentation and aging to keep things authentic. When we started, we only had two Qvevris, each around 500 liters, and they were just for family use. As we grew, we added more, but none of them are brand new – most of them are renovated, cleaned, and reconstructed from different places. Qvevri is just the best way for us to express our terroir and keep our wines stable without any industrial additives. It’s a winemaking method that just feels right for us.
Could you give us some insight into the rare varieties you’re working with? Do you have a favorite?
Honestly, it kind of depends on the year. In 2018, which was our first harvest, Budeshuri Tetri really surprised me. Interestingly, when I planted Budeshuri Tetri, I initially thought I was growing Kakhuri Mtsvane. Two years later, I realized it was actually Budeshuri Tetri. It turned out to be a mix-up at the nursery. That mistake led to the creation of our unique wine. It had this unexpected aroma and flavor – totally different from the usual Kakhetian varieties. It felt like meeting someone totally new who leaves a lasting impression.
Then, in 2021, Chitistvala was the standout, and in 2022, everything turned out so well that it was tough to pick a favorite.
Sadly, 2023 was a rough year because of hail damage, so we couldn’t make Budeshuri Tetri. Instead, we tried something new and blended Chitistvala with Kakhuri Mtsvivani. I’m really happy with how it turned out – just 900 bottles in a limited run, but it feels special.
And how was the 2024 vintage?
The 2024 vintage was really promising. The weather was pretty much perfect, and the grapes stayed healthy, so I’m hopeful we’ll see some excellent results. It was also our first harvest of Rkatsiteli, Kisi, and Saperavi, which made it an especially exciting year for us. Each season teaches us something new, and we’re always adapting to what nature throws our way. It keeps us humble – no two years are ever the same in winemaking.
I noticed there aren’t any red wines in your lineup yet. Are we going to see some reds in the coming years?
Yes! I’m really excited about Tupkvirta. It’s my first time working with this rare variety, which I got from the Agrarian University nursery.
How did you end up choosing Tupkvirta?
Well, at first, I actually went to the nursery to get Simonaseuli, but they convinced me to give Tupkvirta a try. Before planting, I bought about 50 kg of Tupkvirta grapes and made an experimental batch. It turned out to be a light red wine with these beautiful strawberry aromas – totally different from the usual bold red Kakhetian wines. Now, I want to explore it both as a standalone wine and in blends with Saperavi. I’m also really curious to see how it will age over time.
Since you mentioned the style of Kakhetian wines, let’s talk about the terroir and the vineyards themselves. How do they impact your wines?
Our vineyards are in Vachknadziani, on the eastern side of the Mukuzani PDO – pretty much the prime spot for Saperavi in Georgia! We’re lucky to have two different vineyard locations here, and each one has its own character because of differences in elevation and soil types.
Kakheti’s terroir is far from simple – you get all these variations in soil and microclimates, sometimes just 100 meters apart, with vineyards spread over gentle slopes. Depending on where you are on the slope, the soil might hold onto water differently or have a unique texture, creating these little microenvironments right next to each other. Our two vineyards, even though they’re only about a kilometer apart, really show this off.
The wines we make tend to be lighter and softer, and honestly, it’s not because of anything special we’re doing in the winery – that’s just how our land speaks through the grapes. It’s the terroir shaping each bottle in its own way. We’ve got a signature style dialed in, but we’re always experimenting, especially with those rare varieties, just to see what new expressions we can bring out in our wines.
Have you studied the aging potential of your wines?
Yes, I’ve been cellaring all my wines since 2018 and tasting them regularly. So far, the results are very promising. The 2018 Budeshuri Tetri might be one of my best wines yet. However, there’s a challenge: whenever guests visit, I can’t resist sharing my best bottles with them. This hospitality sometimes makes it hard to preserve older vintages.
What can you tell our readers about pairing food with these rare varieties?
Chitistvala has higher acidity and lower tannins, so it goes really well with fish. Kakhuri Mtsvivani is a bit more tannic, so it pairs nicely with meat dishes.
Budeshuri Tetri is a bit of a wild card – it changes a lot from year to year. For example, the 2018 vintage was so light and delicate that I found it went great with sweet pastries, like cupcakes. It’s fun to see how it evolves each year.
Tells us about sustainability in your vineyard and winemaking?
Sustainability means a lot to me. It’s about caring for the land and thinking ahead. In the vineyard, we use organic methods – no systemic chemicals, with additional natural ways to keep pests away and the soil healthy. This keeps the vines strong and lets the wine reflect the true character of the vineyard.
Having said that, your prices remain accessible compared to other winemakers working with organic, rare varieties. Why is that?
I want people in an affordable price range to be able to enjoy my wines. Some winemakers bump up their prices as they get more popular, but I’d rather keep things reasonable. My goal is to attract wine lovers who are curious and want to explore new flavors and experiences without breaking the bank.
Can you discuss your long-term vision for Gebrale Winery?
My vision is for Gebrale Winery to stay true to our artisanal roots. We might add even more new and rare grape varieties or expand our vineyard a bit, but quality will always come first. The goal is to share our wines with more people while keeping that personal touch and authenticity that make us who we are.
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