Nukriani — The Journey of Transforming Vineyards from Conventional to Organic
In this interview, Davit Kachkachashvili takes us on a journey through the transformation of a family vineyard in Nukriani. Moving from conventional farming methods to organic viticulture, Davit shares the challenges and triumphs of reconnecting with the land.
Let's begin by talking about how your winemaking journey started—what year did it begin, why, and how did you start? Was it your family’s vineyard initially? Did your family have vineyards, and when did you get into winemaking? How did the whole process come together?
To start, I’ve always been interested in viticulture and wine. After retiring from an intense city job, I realized the city had very little to offer me anymore. When I first visited Nukriani, I was immediately captivated by its beauty, and it didn’t take long for me to decide to move there and start farming. So, in 2014, I made the move and began working on the vineyard in Nukriani.
Were the vineyards already in your family, or were they new?
The vineyards actually belonged to my father-in-law. We took them over, and I began managing them. While he ran the vineyard using conventional methods, he still made his own family wine, which became quite popular with the neighbors. This was another incentive for me to get interested in this land and explore what its terroir had to offer.
So, the original vineyard was exclusively Rkatsiteli, right?
Yes, that’s correct. The original vineyard was a 60-year-old Rkatsiteli vineyard, and nothing else was planted at the time.
What was the condition of the vineyard, and how did you take care of it in the beginning?
The vineyard was in decent condition, but it had been treated conventionally. In the first year, I continued working the way my father-in-law had, applying heavy systemic sprays and herbicides. It was one hectare, and I ended up with 15 tons of grapes, but the quality was far from ideal. To my current standards, it’s unimaginable to have such a high yield.
What else surprised you about this first vintage, besides the huge yields?
I was shocked. Despite spraying all those heavy chemicals, I couldn’t stop the spread of diseases. The fruit was rotting right in front of my eyes, and it was heartbreaking to watch all that effort go to waste.
Where did this disappointment and shock lead you?
This experience pushed me to explore alternative farming methods more deeply. The shock of seeing how ineffective conventional practices were, despite all the chemicals I had used, sparked a real interest in organic farming within Georgian viticulture. I felt compelled to switch to more biologically clean practices right away, knowing that I needed to find a better way.
Did you start transitioning to organic farming right away?
After reflecting on the practices I had been using in 2015, I made the decision to transition to organic farming right the next season.
Did it feel like you were starting a new vineyard from scratch?
Yes, in a way. It was beautiful to watch the vineyard start regaining its natural defense mechanisms. Seeing its immunity come back and knowing that it was getting stronger without relying on chemicals was an incredibly rewarding experience. It felt like the vineyard was truly healing on its own.
What were the results after making the change, and how long did it take for them to show up?
In the second year, the harvest was already better. The grapes looked healthier, with the natural size of the berries. I managed to collect one and a half tons of grapes, compared to 15 tons the previous year. Still, I was very happy. The quality was much better, with smaller, more concentrated fruit.
This was when you started expanding your vineyards too?
Yes, I acquired more land in surrounding areas that had been abandoned for a long time and planted new varieties there. Besides Rkatsiteli, I planted Saperavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, and, more interestingly, some extremely rare varieties from the Samtskhe-Javakheti region of Georgia, which is where my family comes from.
How soon did you get certified as an organic vineyard?
In 2018, I began the certification process. It took three years, as organic certification requires a transition period.
How did the first year of winemaking go?
It was a learning process, but I was happy with the results. The wine showed a lot of potential, and I received positive feedback, including silver medals from international wine awards. I started bottling wine in 2019, but since I was still in the transition period, I wasn’t fully certified yet.
How do you feel about your vineyard and winemaking today?
I’m really happy with the progress. Over the years, I’ve learned so much about viticulture and winemaking. Now, I can see the results of all the hard work and care we’ve put into the vineyard. I’m proud of the organic methods we’re using, and the wine quality has improved year after year. In addition to winemaking, moving here has brought a new kind of joy. We’ve developed a tradition where friends and family from all around Georgia come together during harvest time. We spend a few days preparing, celebrating, and enjoying each other’s company—it's become a special time for connection and celebration.
Do you have any future plans for expanding or changing things in your vineyard?
Yes, I’m always thinking about ways to improve my methods in the vineyard. I also plan on experimenting with different grape varieties to see how they perform in this terroir. Namely, I have a small parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon and am very interested to see how it performs on its own, but also in blending with Saperavi. I am also experimenting with non-skin-contact white wines, and the results are very interesting—more to come in the future.
How would you describe your wine?
My wine is definitely influenced by the terroir. It's natural, with no additives or artificial interventions. I focus on allowing the character of the grape and the land to shine through. The wines are complex, yet balanced, with a clear expression of the soil and environment where they come from.
Do you also produce other products besides wine?
Yes, we grow Tsiteli Doli, an ancient Georgian wheat variety. It's a traditional wheat that has been used for generations, especially for bread and other local baked goods. The wheat is grown organically, without any chemicals or pesticides, just like everything else on our farm. It's mainly for personal use and to support the local community, but it plays a key role in maintaining the diversity and sustainability of our farm.
How do you see the Georgian wine industry evolving?
I think the Georgian wine industry is at an exciting point right now. There’s a strong movement toward natural and organic wines, and I believe this trend will continue to grow. People are beginning to appreciate the unique qualities of Georgian wines, and there’s a lot of potential for even more recognition on the global stage.
Do you think there’s enough support for organic producers in Georgia?
I think there’s support, but it could be better. While there’s more awareness of organic farming, there’s still a need for more infrastructure and educational programs to help producers navigate organic practices. Government support for organic farming could be stronger as well.
How do you approach marketing and selling your wine?
I focus on quality first and let the wine speak for itself. I participate in wine festivals and competitions to gain exposure, and I’ve had great results from them. A curious story from a recent competition, Millésime BIO in France, highlights how rare wines from our region are. My wine won a silver medal, and the organizers had difficulty finding a Georgian flag to display, as wines from Georgia are still quite uncommon in such events. I also sell directly to customers and in local wine shops. While I’m still working on building my brand, the feedback I get helps me understand what people appreciate about the wine.
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