Dano Winery: A Family Journey of Tradition and Innovation

My passion for wine is deeply tied to our family vineyard, which we’ve had since the 1980s. After the collapse of the USSR, my father inherited a 1-hectare vineyard. For years, we sold grapes to mass producers, unaware of the gem we possessed. Only recently did we realize the exceptional quality of these old vines and decided to start making wine ourselves.

Working in the vineyard was always part of life, but it wasn’t until we bottled our first two samples in 2017 that we understood the true potential. When the wine was well-received at the New Wine Festival, we realized those 40-year-old vines were producing something unique. That was the moment we knew we could craft wines that reflected our family’s history and the vineyard’s special qualities.

Once we took control of the winemaking process, we fully appreciated how deep the roots of these vines go, both literally and figuratively. The grapes have incredible character, which we’re now channeling into our own wine.

We realized early on that we couldn't compete with large wineries and didn’t want to. Operating on a small scale with about one hectare of vineyard, we embraced natural winemaking because it aligned with our values. We produce 2,000 to 3,000 bottles annually from our own grapes, and this is a philosophy we’re committed to.

A key turning point for us was the decision to go fully organic, which was partially influenced by health issues. We no longer use chemicals like pesticides or herbicides. Since 2022, we’ve been full members of the Natural Wine Association, and our wines now carry their logo. Our approach is minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and in the winemaking process. We let nature lead, using only small amounts of sulfur and relying on natural filtration methods. The idea has always been to stay true to who we are—modest, authentic winemakers who respect the land and the traditions.

The environment plays a huge role. Our vineyards are at the end of the Signagi region, which gives us a pretty unique and somewhat isolated microclimate. The elevation here is relatively low, just 218 meters, and the soil is really fertile and good at holding water, which is quite rare for Kakheti. These conditions, along with being close to the Tsiv-Gombori mountain range, create something special for our grapes. On one hand, they ripen really well, but they also keep a great level of acidity. This balance gives us wines that are fruity, well-structured, and still have a nice, fresh kick. Even within our vineyard, the different elevations affect how the grapes grow, adding more complexity to our wines.

The uniqueness of the region plays a big role. For example, in my village, Dzveli Anaga, vineyards were known for producing wine with deep character. This local history influences how we approach winemaking. The landscape, the mountains, and even the winds contribute to the specific style of wine we produce. We have a mix of old and new vineyards, some of which we’ve replanted with historical varieties like Grdzelmtevana, which is an ancient grape variety native to this area.

The past few years have really shown us how unpredictable winemaking can be, and each vintage has brought its own set of challenges and rewards. In 2022, we dealt with a severe drought that made it difficult for the vines to retain water. That year, we had to be extra careful with our harvest, and while the quality was still decent, the yields were lower. In 2023, the conditions got even worse, due to Mildew we almost lost all harvest. We don't irrigate our vineyards because we want the vines to develop deep roots and absorb nutrients naturally, which paid off. The vines thrived, and we had a very promising harvest with excellent grapes.

Yes, and now, with the 2024 vintage, things are looking good so far. We've had relatively favorable weather conditions this year, which has kept disease pressure low and allowed the grapes to mature at a steady pace. This vintage is shaping up to be a strong one. The rains came at the right times, and the temperatures have been moderate, so we’re expecting an excellent harvest. It’s still early to judge the full outcome, but all signs point to another great vintage. Every year, nature teaches us new lessons, and with 2024, it feels like we're finding a good rhythm in our winemaking process.

Exactly. We’ve become better at reading the vineyard and responding to what the season gives us. We expect this year’s grapes to reflect the perfect balance between the vine’s natural strengths and the environmental conditions. Every vintage is a learning experience, and the 2024 vintage is teaching us patience and the importance of nurturing our vines year-round to ensure a great harvest.

Reviving old Georgian varieties like Grdzelmtevana and Khakhuri Mtsvivani has been both rewarding and challenging. These varieties were almost lost during the Soviet era because the focus back then was on mass production. Cultivating these grapes today is difficult because they tend to have lower yields, and the bunches are more delicate. The vines are fragile, especially during the flowering period, which makes the agro-technical work more complex. We are still perfecting the techniques needed to get the best results, but the potential is huge because these varieties offer something unique that is rooted in our winemaking heritage.

The main challenge with these old varieties is that they don’t produce as much as modern varieties, but the quality is exceptional. Some of the vines are so old that they need extra care to bring them back to full production, but we are willing to put in the work because we believe the results will be worth it.

Tradition is at the core of everything we do. Even though we use stainless tanks, we also use some Qvevris for fermenting and aging our wine, which are over a century old. These vessels were passed down from our ancestors, and they are still in excellent condition today.

But we also understand the need to evolve. We've gradually adopted new techniques and approaches to enhance the overall quality and character of our wines.

Our expansion has been steady but controlled and we prefer to keep things small and manageable. Festivals have helped us gain international recognition. For instance, Peter Bleeker and his wife Mana Bleeker Ottmer, a Dutch wine experts, introduced our wine to the Dutch market in 2018, and that was our first step into international exposure. But even with this recognition, we don’t aim to become a large-scale operation.

One thing that has helped us grow is our commitment to doing everything ourselves. From the vineyard work to the winemaking process and even designing our labels, we are involved in every step. Last year, we had a great harvest, and we processed all of the grapes ourselves for the first time, which was a huge milestone. We’re not in this for mass production; we want to keep our wines artisanal, and that’s why we are dedicated to producing wine solely from our own vineyard.

We’re currently considering adding new plots of vineyards. We are also interested in reviving more old Georgian grape varieties and bringing them back into the spotlight. There’s a lot of potential in these forgotten grapes, and we want to make sure they aren’t lost to history.

Expansion is definitely something we are thinking about, but it’s not just about growing for the sake of it. We believe that by staying small and focused, we can continue to create wines that are deeply connected to our land and traditions - wines that are increasingly appreciated by connoisseurs and wine lovers around the world.

Our labels are very personal to us. For example, the red wine label features a sparrow, which is a symbol of resilience and hard work. It’s a small bird, but it works tirelessly, and that’s how we view our approach to winemaking. The stork on one of our white wines is a symbol of happiness. The flower-like image on our Qvevri wines represents the mouth of the Qvevri.

Each figure on our labels is carefully chosen. The sparrow, the stork—these symbols resonate with us because they reflect qualities that are important in winemaking. We believe that wine is not just about the taste; it’s also about the stories and traditions behind it. That’s why we take great care in designing labels that convey these stories. We’re always looking for ways to evolve our label designs, and we plan to introduce new ones that reflect both our personal journey and the history of Georgian winemaking.

This year, we experimented with blending new varieties, which was partly inspired by the practicalities of our harvest and our desire to push the boundaries of what we can create. We had small amounts of white grapes like Grdzelmtevana and Kakhuri Mtsvivani, as well as red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Saperavi. Since we didn’t have enough Vardisperi Rkatsiteli, we blended it to make something special. This experimentation has been an exciting process, allowing us to create unique blends that reflect the best of what we had available during the harvest.

Yes, blending the varieties was partly driven by necessity, but it also opened up new creative possibilities. We love the idea of taking what nature gives us and turning it into something new. This year, for example, we did minimal maceration with some of our wines to refine their texture and flavor, and we’re always adjusting our techniques.

Absolutely. It’s not just about the taste for them; it’s about the connection to the land, the history, and the effort that goes into each bottle. People are fascinated by our use of Qvevris. It gives them a sense of being part of something bigger, something rooted in tradition.

Yes, people often tell us that they appreciate the cultural significance of what we’re doing. For them, drinking our wine is an experience—they’re connecting with a piece of Georgian history and craftsmanship. They love learning about how the wines are made, from the Qvevri fermentation process to our organic vineyard practices. The revival of old grape varieties also resonates with them because it’s about preserving a heritage that could have been lost. It adds meaning to every bottle, and that personal connection is a big part of why our customers return.

We hope to continue growing steadily. We want to introduce more people to our wines, both locally and internationally, but we will never sacrifice our commitment to small-scale, hands-on production. We’re considering expanding our vineyard slightly, adding some new varieties. We’ll continue experimenting with blends and techniques, but everything we do will remain connected to the traditions we’ve inherited.

There’s a lot of potential in reviving forgotten Georgian grape varieties. At the same time, we’re excited to explore new blends and techniques that keep us innovative. The balance between tradition and innovation is key to what we do. In the end, it’s about making wine that tells a story — one that honors our past while also looking to the future.