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Ibero — Standing on Family Values with a Holistic Approach to Winemaking

Ibero — Standing on Family Values with a Holistic Approach to Winemaking

In this interview with Shota Natroshvili, we explore the story of Ibero Winery, a family-run operation in Vachnadziani. At the heart of the winery is the seamless interplay between the old and new generations. The Ibero family shares how the wisdom and traditions passed down by the older generation blend with the fresh ideas and energy of the newer generation.

Ibero
Ibero family in the celler
Ibero family in the celler
Let's begin with the history of your involvement in wine. How did your interest in winemaking and viticulture start?

So the beginning was more about the family. In 2000–2001, it was the year my grandpa decided to plant the vineyards. The idea at first was to grow grapes for sale. My family had been making wine for domestic consumption for many generations, but the start of mass grape growing was focused on selling the grapes.

Do you make wine from all the grapes you harvest, or do you continue to sell some of them?

It really depends on the year. Currently, we can produce about 12,000 to 15,000 bottles per year. The amount of grapes we harvest varies, but generally, we aim for around 6,000 to 7,000 kilograms per hectare. Some years, we get more, and in those cases, we sell some to other wineries. However, about 90–95% of the grapes we harvest, we use for our own production. It’s important for us to have control over as much of the process as possible, but we also want to maintain the flexibility to sell some of our crop if necessary, based on the vintage.

How are responsibilities divided within the family, especially in such a large family winery? One member focuses on winemaking, another takes care of the vineyard—how does that dynamic work?

We have distributed the work among us. My grandpa takes care of the vineyards, my uncle manages the winery, and my father handles sales in Tbilisi. My cousin Dato and I (Shota Natroshvili) are involved in general management, sales (mostly exports), and also helping during harvest time.

Ibero
Ibero
Ibero
So, does this mean you control every step of the process, from the vineyard to the bottling?

Yes, from the very beginning, we wanted to have complete control over the entire process. For us, winemaking starts in the vineyard, and it was crucial to ensure that we were able to guide the entire process—from planting the vines to bottling the wine. The ability to work closely with our vineyards and make decisions based on the unique conditions of each vintage gives us a deeper connection to the land.

What grape varieties do you currently have in your vineyards?

We currently have five varieties: Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Kisi, Khikhvi and Mtsvane. Our focus has always been on local Kakhetian varieties. Kisi and Khikhvi are rare varieties, and we’re proud to be among the few who are cultivating them. These varieties bring something unique to our wines, whether it's the aromatic complexity of Kisi or the elegance of Khikhvi. We believe these varieties, in particular, give us an opportunity to showcase the depth and potential of the region’s terroir.

Any plans on expanding vineyard and varieties?

At this stage, we’re not planning to expand the vineyard significantly or introduce new varieties in the near future. The current size is manageable, and it allows us to focus on maintaining the quality we’ve built over the years. Our primary goal right now is to refine our approach, whether it's through vineyard management, winemaking techniques, or marketing. There’s a lot of room to grow in terms of refining what we already produce. Expanding the vineyard size isn’t necessary at the moment. Instead, we want to continue deepening our understanding of each variety and how best to express them in the bottle. Growth for us at this moment is about increasing the quality of what we’re already doing.

Ibero winery from birds eye
Ibero winery from birds eye
You mentioned the winemaking is done in Qvevri. Could you elaborate on that?

Yes, we make all our wines in Qvevri, the traditional Georgian clay vessels. This method is integral to how we make wine. The Qvevri allows for natural fermentation, and the clay interacts with the wine in a way that promotes slow, steady development. Using wild yeast, the fermentation process becomes more of a natural expression of the vineyard. It’s an ancient technique that’s stood the test of time because it allows the wine to develop its full potential, expressing the true nature of the grapes. The Qvevri provides a unique microclimate that helps preserve the wine’s natural characteristics and imparts a subtle complexity that can’t be replicated in stainless steel or oak barrels.

How long do the amber wines stay on skins? Is it a long maceration process?

Our amber wines stay on the skins for about 14 to 16 days during fermentation, which is a typical length for us. The idea is to allow for enough time to extract the flavor, color, and tannins from the skins while also ensuring that the wines don’t become overly tannic or bitter. We’re looking for balance—amber wines need structure, but they also need to maintain a certain softness and drinkability. The length of time on skins is always adjusted based on the characteristics of the grapes and the conditions of the year.

What role does wild yeast play in your winemaking process?

Wild yeast is at the heart of our winemaking process. We rely on indigenous, wild yeasts to start fermentation because they are uniquely suited to the conditions of our vineyards. These yeasts bring out the true expression of the grapes, as they are adapted to the local environment and the unique conditions of our region. By allowing the natural yeasts to ferment the wine, we avoid the use of commercial yeast strains. Wild fermentation is slower and more unpredictable, but it’s the most authentic way to let the wine reflect the characteristics of the vineyard.

Ibero
Ibero
Ibero
Are there any particular challenges that come with this approach?

There are definitely challenges, but they’re part of the beauty of the process. Wild fermentation is unpredictable—sometimes it can take longer than expected, and in certain conditions, the yeast might struggle to get started. This can be stressful, especially in cooler years, but it also means that each vintage has its own character. We don’t rush the fermentation process, allowing the wine to evolve at its own pace. The biggest challenge, however, is ensuring that the natural yeasts don’t become overwhelmed by unwanted microorganisms, which is why we stay vigilant during fermentation. But once we’ve got the fermentation going, it tends to develop in a way that is very true to the grape and the environment. It’s an approach that requires patience, but the rewards are worth it.

How do you approach winemaking in terms of handling each vintage? Are there differences in how you treat the wines depending on the year?

Every vintage presents its own unique set of challenges, and part of the art of winemaking is adapting to those challenges. For example, some years may see warmer temperatures that lead to faster ripening, while other years may be cooler and require a longer growing season. We try to adjust our approach based on the conditions of the year. While we don’t make radical changes from year to year, we do pay close attention to factors such as harvest timing, fermentation temperatures, and aging conditions. Some vintages may require slightly longer maceration or fermentation times, while others may need more delicate handling to preserve their freshness. Ultimately, we let the wine guide us, making sure that we’re responsive to its needs and letting it evolve naturally.

How is the vineyard managed throughout the year? Are there any specific challenges you face in maintaining it?

Vineyard management is a year-round task. In the early part of the year, we focus on pruning, which is crucial for ensuring the vines grow in a balanced way and produce high-quality grapes. It’s about shaping the vine to ensure that it’s not overloaded, allowing the plant to focus its energy on producing fewer but better-quality bunches. During the growing season, we monitor the vines closely, ensuring that they are healthy and have the proper amount of water and nutrients. The biggest challenge we face is weather-related. Sometimes, the weather can be unpredictable—heavy rains or droughts can severely impact the vineyard. That’s why we’re always assessing and adapting our approach to meet the needs of the vines. We also avoid overharvesting to ensure that the quality of the fruit remains high. By focusing on maintaining balance and not pushing the vines too hard, we ensure that the grapes are of the highest possible quality each year.

Nukriani
Nukriani
With all of the work you put into the vineyard, do you consider your approach to be organic, or do you follow conventional practices?

We don’t label our vineyard as organic because we do use some treatments when necessary, especially in challenging years. However, our philosophy is centered on minimal intervention. We avoid the use of systemic pesticides and herbicides, preferring instead to manage the vineyard with an emphasis on balance and natural solutions. We focus on maintaining the health of the vines and the soil so that we don’t need to intervene too much during the winemaking process. This approach is based on the idea that if the vineyard is in good condition from the start, the wine will naturally be healthier and require fewer interventions in the cellar.

Given the challenges in managing the vineyards and producing wine, what are some of the most important lessons you’ve learned over the years?

The most important lesson I’ve learned is patience. Winemaking is not a quick process—it’s a slow evolution. From the moment you plant the vine to when you finally bottle the wine, it’s a journey that takes time, and each stage requires careful consideration and attention. Another key lesson is the importance of being in tune with the land. The more you understand your vineyard, the better you can make decisions about how to manage it and how to guide the winemaking process. Every year is different, and you need to adapt to the conditions. Lastly, I’ve learned the value of being hands-off when needed. Sometimes, the best thing you can do for the wine is to let it evolve naturally, without interference. Trusting the process and the land is crucial for making wines that are true to their origin.

What are the biggest challenges you face as a small family winery, and how do you overcome them?

One of the biggest challenges is the limited scale. As a small family winery, we don’t have the resources of larger producers, which means we have to be very efficient and strategic with everything we do. That includes managing the vineyard, the production process, and the marketing side of things. It’s a lot of work, and we all have to wear multiple hats. Another challenge is maintaining the consistency and quality that we strive for. With smaller production, there’s less room for error, and every decision counts. We overcome these challenges by sticking to our values—maintaining tight control over the quality of our grapes and the winemaking process, being patient, and focusing on our unique strengths. We also rely heavily on the family’s collective knowledge and experience, which allows us to be flexible and creative in finding solutions to the challenges we face.

Nukriani
Nukriani
Nukriani
With the growing interest in Georgian wine, how do you see the future of Georgian wine on the global market?

The global interest in Georgian wine is definitely growing, and it’s exciting to see how our wines are being received in different markets. There’s an increasing recognition of Georgia’s unique winemaking heritage, and I think this will continue to grow in the coming years. However, there’s still a lot of work to do in terms of educating consumers about the diversity of Georgian wines, especially when it comes to our indigenous varieties. Georgian wine has a lot to offer, but the market is still somewhat fragmented, with different regions and varieties needing more exposure. The future of Georgian wine, in my view, will depend on how well we can communicate our identity—how we’re different from other wine regions—and how we can position ourselves as a premium wine-producing country. There’s definitely a bright future ahead, but it will require a collective effort to push Georgian wine to the next level on the global stage.

How do you see the role of family wineries in the broader context of Georgian wine, especially when it comes to the global market?

Family wineries play a crucial role in preserving the authenticity of Georgian wine. While larger, industrial-scale wineries can produce wines in higher quantities, they often lack the personal connection to the land and the tradition that family-run wineries provide. Family wineries are where much of the innovation and true expression of Georgian wine happens. We are deeply invested in the long-term health of our vineyards and the wines we produce, and that care can’t be replicated on a large scale. On the global market, family wineries often stand out because they represent authenticity. As more people discover Georgian wine, they’ll be drawn to the stories behind family wineries, which offer something unique.

What are plans for the future of your winery?

We can continue to refine and perfect our wines, maintaining the balance between tradition and innovation. I want to see our winery grow in a sustainable way, without compromising the quality and authenticity of our wines. We’re always looking for ways to improve, whether it’s through better vineyard management or finding new ways to tell our story. I also hope to continue to share our wines with a wider audience, both locally and internationally, so more people can experience the unique character of our wines. Ultimately, I want our winery to be a place where people can connect to the land, to the family, and to the wine in a meaningful way.

Given all of your experience, what advice would you offer to someone just starting in the wine industry?

My advice would be to be patient and committed. Wine is a long-term pursuit—it takes time, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, to understand what works and what doesn’t. There are no shortcuts in winemaking. It’s important to invest in your knowledge and experience, and to be willing to adapt and learn from every vintage. Also, it’s crucial to stay true to your values. Whether you’re focusing on quality, sustainability, or tradition, it’s essential to have a clear vision and not be swayed by short-term trends. The wine industry can be challenging, but if you stay focused and passionate about your craft, the rewards will come. Finally, don’t forget that winemaking is a deeply personal journey—there’s a connection to the land, to the process, and to the people who share in the experience. Stay connected to that, and it will guide you through the ups and downs.

 

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